Blog @ Deep Blue - Monday, April 21, 2008

Monday, April 21, 2008

Double/Single Taper Drive Shaft Removal & Cutlass Bearing Installation/Removal

Double Taper Drive Shaft Removal

1. Remove the propeller.

**We suggest using a prop puller to prevent damaging the propeller. Attempting

to pound off the propeller with a hammer will very likely damage the propeller and should be avoided.**

2. Loosen the stuffing box nut.

3. Loosen the safety collar.

4. Unbolt the shaft coupling from the engine.

5. Slide the drive shaft and shaft coupling away from the engine and remove the retaining

nut from the end of the drive shaft.

6. Re-bolt the shaft coupling to the engine.

7. Attach the shaft puller, then hammer away until the drive shaft comes out of the

coupling.

8. Remove the shaft coupling from the engine.

Single Taper Drive Shaft Removal

1. Follow steps one through three of double taper drive shaft removal.

2. Remove the set screws from the shaft coupling. **Do not remove the bolts

attaching the shaft coupling to the engine.**

3. Attach the shaft puller, then hammer away until the drive shaft is free of the shaft

coupling. **Before removal, it is a good idea to mark the drive shaft with a felt tip pen where it

enters the shaft coupling to provide an indication of progress.**

4. Once the drive shaft is out of the shaft coupling, check the transmission coupling end of

the drive shaft for scoring. Smooth out any rough edges or burrs to avoid damaging the

packing seal or strut bearings when removing the shaft.

5. Remove the drive shaft from the boat.

6. Remove the shaft coupling from the engine.

Cutlass Bearing Removal

1. Remove drive shaft.

2. Determine appropriate bearing puller washer by measuring the OD (outer diameter) of the

cutlass bearing.

3. Slide puller coupler through strut (use sleeve for 1-1/8” ID (inner diameter) bearings) and

attach appropriate bearing puller washer with bolt.

4. Align bearing puller with cutlass bearing and hammer strut bearings out of the strut.

Cutlass Bearing Installation

1. Determine appropriate bearing puller washer by measuring the OD of the cutlass bearing

to be installed.

2. Slide puller coupler through strut, place cutlass bearing on puller coupler and secure with

bearing puller and bolt.

3. Line up bearing with inside of strut barrel to assure correct orientation.**If cutlass

bearings are not pulled in straight, barrel damage may occur.**

4. Hammer cutlass bearing through until back edge of strut bearing is aligned with shaft end

of strut barrel.

5. Push puller back through strut and place second cutlass bearing on the puller coupler.

Hammer until the front edge of the strut bearing is aligned with the forward end of strut

barrel.

6. Remove puller from strut and re-install drive shaft.

Monday, April 21, 2008 1:26:12 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)

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Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Boating Pre-Season Checklist for Spring Commissioning

What do the baseball, football, and boating seasons have in common? They all have pre-seasons.

In boating, Spring is the time to get your vessel ready for the greatest season of the year. It is also an opportunity to avoid potential safety problems.

The pros at Deep Blue Yacht Supply have designed a powerful playbook to help you prepare for boating season.

Dust off the owner's manual. Always consult your manual for specifics and for items that may deviate from this checklist.

Click here to download a printer friendly version.

Engine

Change the Oil
Did you change the oil when you winterized your boat?
Even if you did, the oil usually absorbs unwanted acids and chemicals from the engine during the long winter's sleep. You may want to change the oil again to remove these deposits.
Reconnect Spark Plugs
If you left the spark plugs disconnected during the winter, it's time to re-install and re-connect.
Reconnect Fuel Hoses
As with the spark plugs, the same applies to outboard
Intake Sea Strainer
Double check that the strainer is free of debris and corrosion.
Inspect all belts and hoses.
Clamps should be snug and free of rust. If they show signs of cracking, rotting, or feel mushy, it's best to replace them now.

Here is a neat trick that we use to test fuel lines and clamps. Take an old white rag and run it up and down the fuel clamps and hoses. If you see or smell fuel on the rag, it is best to tighten the clamps and inspect the hoses more carefully.

To replace any hoses or belts, check out our selection of Buck Algonquin® hoses and clamps.
Sterndrive Boot and Hydraulics:
Inspect rubber boot for cracks or holes.
Check fluid levels in lift pumps and hydraulic steering.

Propellers and Shafts

Inspect Propeller
Remove prop and lubricate if necessary. Inspect prop for dings or damage. Even a slightly dinged prop can cause excess vibration on the engine / lower unit. If ding exposes aluminum, then excess corrosion can occur from electric currents. Have propeller repaired or consider purchasing a new propeller.

Deep Blue Yacht Supply offers the following tools:
Inspect shafts and struts for proper operation.
We offer stainless steel boat shafts in Aqualoy® 17, 19, and 22 material. Please refer to our Shaft Guide for specifics about custom stainless shafting.
Inspect Shaft Cutless Bearings
Replacement is due when the prop shaft starts to shimmy or when the shaft shows movement of about 3/16 of an inch. Deep Blue Yacht Supply carries a wide range of Metallic, Non Metallic, and Flanged Cutless Bearings

eLECTRICAL

Check water levels
Fully Charge the battery
It's been sleeping for a while.
Clean Battery Terminals
Remove all the corrosion
Inspect Electrical Connections
Check for wear in electrical wires. Repair if necessary.
Shore Power Cable
Inspect cable for burns and wear
Test your electrical systems for proper operation
- Gauges
- VHF Radio
- Antennas
- GPS Units, Plotters, & Fish Finders
- Water Pumps
- Lighting
- Bilge Pump

Safety & emergency

Inspect Life Jackets / PFDs
Get them out of the back of the locker. Inspect them for rips. Double-check the seams. Do you have enough for each person onboard? Do you have enough sizes for younger kids?

Have you ever had to put on a life jacket in an emergency? How about one that is still in the plastic? Take out a stop watch and time yourself. Can you put in on and adjust the straps in less than 15 seconds? To avoid potential problems, we use the following technique for all our trips:

Pull out your PFDs. With a Sharpie, number each one. When your guests board your boat, assign them a number and throw them a life jacket with the appropriate number. Ask them to adjust the straps to their size and try it on for size. This helps in two ways. First, in an emergency, there will be no time messing with the straps. Secondly, it helps get the life jackets out from the back of the locker, and closer to the surface.
Throwable Flotation Device
The U.S. Coast Guard requires that you have one throwable PFD. Let's say that you throw it and miss your target. Now what? I keep two throwables on my boat. One with a line attached. In an emergency, I first throw the regular cushion. If I miss, then I'll have the one with the line to throw over and over again.
Fire Extinguishers
Make sure the extinguisher is fully charged. In addition, the extinguisher has been sitting in its mount for a while without any movement. To avoid the chemical from settling into a hard rock at the bottom of the canister, slowly invert the canister 20-25 times. You should feel the chemicals slosh back and forth through the canister.

Lastly, if the expiration date has passed, or is coming due, it would be best to buy a new fire extinguisher. If you can find an ABC extinguisher, I would definitely pick one up.
Flares / Visual Distress Systems
Check the expiration date on your flares. 42 months is the usual life of flares. If the flares have expired, you can donate them to your local USCG Auxiliary Flotilla or Fire Department.
Re-organize your emergency box
By re-organizing your emergency kit, you'll see if something has gotten wet, or if something has expired. If you don't have a kit, it's time to buy one. I keep a fully stocked waterproof box onboard.
Here are some of the items that we store in the box.
- First Aid Kit
- Screwdrivers
- Vise-Grips Pliers
- Spare Navigation Bulbs
- Spare Spark Plugs
- Spare Fuses
- Flares
- Extra Knife
- Extra Batteries
- ...and even more batteries
Check your compass
What if your GPS unit loose powers. This is your non-electrical friend.
Liferaft Inspection
Is it time for servicing? Please use a local facility or your OEM for this one, as they can repack it properly.

Have the liferaft supplies expired? Are they still in good condition?
Test the Smoke Detectors
EPIRBs
Check expiration date. Use the manufacturer to replace batteries.
Register unit with USCG. Follow manufacturer's instructions on how to test.
Abandon Ship / Ditch Bag
You hope it never happens, but just in case. Here are a few items worth considering.
- EPIRBs
- Sea-Dye Packet
- Handheld VHF Radio
- Flashlight
- Batteries
- Watertight Bag for Electronics
- Flares
- Whistle
- Passports
- Protein or Granola Bars
- Water Packs, Water Maker, Desalinization Packs
- Water Container
- Inflatable Distress Flag (can catch rain water, too)
- Fishing Line / Hook / Sinkers
- Sunscreen
- First Aid Kit

Deck / Hull

Bow
Inspect the lifelines, pulpits, and stanchion. Inspect the anchor, ground tackle, lines, and fenders.
Hardware
Inspect all deck hardware including cleats, deck pipes, hatch lifts, brackets, vents, and scupper plates for damage or wear.

If you are in need of deck hardware, check out our wide selection of Buck Algonquin® Marine Hardware.
Inspect dingy and life raft clamps
Inspect bimini canvas and covers
Inspect Hull for Damage
Look for and repair any scratches and gouges. Inspect for blisters.
Inspect Trim Tabs
Be sure to test the trim tabs to make sure they function properly. Refer to your owner's manual for specifics.
Replace Zincs
These sacrificial pieces of metal protect the precious metal components of your boat including lower units, propellers, rudders, shafts, and struts. They should be replaced when one-third of the original zinc remains. I like to replace mine once a season when the boat is out of the water.

Be sure to check out our wide array of Zimar Zinc Anodes.
Inspect Rubber Gaskets and Seals
Renew caulk and gaskets. If in doubt, you should replace.
Inspect rudder / steering components and fittings.
Deep Blue Yacht Supply provides a wide range of Steering Components.
Inspect Drain Plug

Fresh Water System

Fill the water tanks
Reconnect the hot water heater
Non Toxic Antifreeze
Although it's non-toxic and alcohol based, nobody likes it. Flush out the antifreeze that you added in the winter. Run all the faucets including the shower heads.

Bilges

Verify that bilges operate properly
Verify connections to battery. Clear debris from float.
Make sure bilge has oil

Documents

USCG Auxiliary Safety Check
The Coast Guard Auxiliary performs complimentary safety checks. This helps confirm that your vessel meets both Federal and State regulations. There are no citations issued and violations are not reported to law enforcement.

Visit SafetySeal.net to locate an examiner in your area.
Check you boat's registration
Insurance Policy
While your insurance company will usually send you the renewal bill, use this time to make sure your coverage meets your needs.
Boat Towing Service
Is it time to renew your service?

Wednesday, March 12, 2008 4:36:55 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)

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Sunday, March 02, 2008

How Does The PSS Mechanical Shaft Seal Work?

What makes up the shaft seal?

A mechanical seal is created by the contact of a turning surface against a stationary surface. In the case of the PSS Shaft Seal, the stationary surface is a carbon flange held in contact against a stainless steel rotor which turns with the shaft. The carbon flange is attached to the boat by a nitrile bellow which, with the help of water pressure, produces a constant contact between the carbon and the stainless steel ring. These type of seals are unaffected by engine motion or vibrations. The result is a 100% watertight and totally maintenance-free seal.

1) HIGH DENSITY CARBON/GRAPHITE FLANGE
This space age composite is machined to shape. The face is then lapped to 4 light bands. Once installed and operational the carbon/graphite face will actually polish the stainless steel rotor face during the initial minutes of operation. This polishing process ensures a perfect seal and eliminates the necessity of a spray guard. The high density of this composite greatly increases its impact and wear resistance. At a maximum operating temperature of 500° F, the carbon guards against any overheating situation unlike other seals using plastic derivatives. The carbon/graphite flange should never need replacing under normal operation conditions.

2) DOUBLE O-RINGS
The nitrile O-Rings are fit inside the stainless steel rotor to guarantee alignment and seal of the rotor to propeller shaft. Nitrile is the material used due to its superior resistance to petroleum products, temperature variations and resistance to tearing. These O-rings are stationary and do not wear.

3) STAINLESS STEEL ROTOR
The one-piece stainless steel (Type 316) rotor is slid down and secured to the propeller shaft with double set screws. Precision tolerance are maintained bycomputer controlled lathes. After machining, the rotors are passivated to military specifications for maximum corrosion resistance. The stainless steel rotor should never need replacing under normal operating conditions.

4) DOUBLE ALLEN HEAD SET SCREWS
Allen head set screws with cupped ends (to prevent damage to shaft) are threaded into the rotor and secured to the propeller shaft. A second set screw is then threaded into each hole to secure the first screw and to prevent it from possibly backing out. Set screws are treated with a Dri-Loc 204.

5) DOUBLE HOSE CLAMPS
Two stainless steel hose clamps are used to secure the bellow at both the stern tube and flange ends.

6) BELLOW
Bellow is resistance to petroleum based products and set retention. It provides the best combination of durability, strength and elasticity. The stern tube end of the bellow is available in 1/4" increments. Both shaft and stern tube diameters are necessary when ordering.

Sunday, March 02, 2008 9:17:28 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)

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